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I'm afraid this is a bit out of my element so I don't want to steer you wrong. Can't help notice the name brand though. Realistic, as in radio shack? Is it worth putting time, energy or money into. No offense meant just curious.
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You could wire a 10 watt resistor in series with the speaker. If the speakers are 4 ohms you could add a 4 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the speaker. If it gets too hot when playing you could wire 2*2 ohm 10 watt or 4*1 ohm 10 watt resistors in series with the speaker. Radioshack sells wirewound 10 watt resistors. What is the impedance of the speaker you are trying to drive ? Most amps are capable of driving at least a 4 ohm load. |
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The speakers are 150w 4ohm Pyrod speakers but the amp is 8-16ohm and I believe it's ok to have a higher impedance on the speakers than the amp but not the other way around. also, would 10w resistor be able to handle the power going through them?
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It works and I like the sound. That's good enough for me.
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This is often used in 2 and 3 way loud speaker designs to reduce current flow to the lower power midrange and tweeters. Another option that you had mentioned is to purchase a impedance matching switch box. Even though the amp is rated for 8-16 ohms, I would imagine that it should be able to drive a 4 ohm load. Is this just for a home stereo setup ? |
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I would guess the "SA" is Stereo Amplifier. You might check their web site. They do have some manuals for download. I would use the power resistor for easy listening levels and wouldn't assume the speakers present a safe load. RS is good stuff - often made by the big Nipponese mfg. One Teac made reel to reel became so popular that Teac then introduced it under it's own name. My 4-channel open reel is panasonic made by looks. Don't expect it to be Crown quality, though.
__________________ pss790, K1, d-5, x-fi notebook, !live and vortex2, turser p90 sg, Ibanez steel string, Bongos, Washboard, etc. : ), Roberts 770 w/dual EF86 mono-blocks, cedar ridge acoustic |
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