Re: drum tuning, why does this happen?
I don't know if this will help but think about rims/tension rods this way.
First of all, if you are playing wood shells realize that even a machined surface (bearing edge) is not going to be completely perfect. This is due to the natural tendencies of the wood. There will be slight differences (high and low spots) around the edge of the drum. These differences may be so small that they are not really visible. Additionally, rims are rarely if ever completely flat and true from one side to the other. When I say flat again the difference may be so small that it is not visible. Lastly, although machine made, I am sure that drum heads (even the best) will differ slightly in uniformity around the circumference of the head.
With these slight differences in mind, as the tension rods are tightened into the lugs, even a steady hand is going to not tighten each tension rod exactly as the others. Some may be 1/64 of a turn more or less than the others etc.... another variable that makes it a challenge to tune.
You wrote that you tighten the head and leave it sit overnight. This is a good idea. It allows the head to conform to the conditions that the drum is in currently (humidity, temperature, etc...). Keep in mind that if you gig your drums that you want to re-check tuning before the gig and it would be good if the drums can adjust to the playing conditions before you tune.
There are several good suggestions on this site for tuning. I have tried some and have also researched other information and have developed my own technique. When placing new heads on the shells, I begin with the resonant head. I sit the head on the shell as evenly as possible and set the rim. Each tension rod is then hand tightened just to the point where the the head of the tension rod makes contact with the rim. At this point, I give each tension rod 2 full rotations in 1/2 turn increments using the alternating "star" pattern as you described. Using 2 drum keys at this point helps speed up the process, enables you to remember which set of tension rods you are working on, and I feel provides more even tensioning around the drum. After this initial 2 complete turns, the head is usually tight enough to "rough tune". As you stated, tapping the head about an inch in front of each tension rod and adjusting tension to produce the same tone when struck lightly. I believe "close" is all that is needed here. At this point, you "seat" the head as described in other places on tuning in this forum. From here, the fine tuning process begins. Small adjustments are critical in order to speed up this process. It can be tedious and patience is really important. I have noticed that when trying to "match" tone at adjacent lugs, you may need to skip a lug and work the next one over (for cases where the tension is very different on adjacent areas of the drum). Another point I have learned is that when trying to "tune" for matching tones, I reduce the amount of tightening of a tension rod to half (instead of an 1/8 turn I will do a 1/16 and also do a 1/16 on the opposite lug in the pair). Again, slow and steady with slight adjustments actually speeds the process up as you "zero" in on the sweet spot of the drum. Repeat the process for the batter head.
I also wanted to comment on the question you had concerning other areas of the head tightening instead of where you are torquing. Remember, each tension rod is responsible for a length of arc on the rim. For a 12" drum with 6 tension rods each rod is responsible for about 6-7 inches of rim. With the potential variables I mentioned earlier, you may find differences in pitch of the head even between 2 adjacent lugs.
Just as there are innumerable styles and techniques of drumming, so there are many "methods" of tuning. The best thing to do is find a method that works for your particular drums, your heads, and your playing style. Tuning can be frustrating but the rewards are priceless! A mediocre drum kit can sound amazing if it is well tuned, an expensive kit can sound like trash if it is not!
In order to become good at tuning you need to practice! Remember learning para-diddles? Same thing. No part of producing a good sound comes without work! I spend about an hour a week tuning in addition to our practice sessions. I do this before the guys show up to jam. I use this quiet time to refine my "tuning ear" and dial my drums back into tune. I also use a soft mallet to listen for tone as well as a light tap of a stick. The mallet gives you the tone of the drum without hearing the attack of the head. As written in another place on this site, a drum can go out of tune even after just a few minutes of playing with new heads, depending on conditions.
Above all, have fun with it! Experiment between head tightness for resonant vs batter. You will be surprised after just a few hours of practice tuning that you will become better and faster at doing it (like single stroke rolls)!
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